Trolling motor stabilizer...???

[leahcim_dahc]

Anyone heard of such a beast?

The issue I am having is on my pontoon I have a 36lb. minnkota trolling motor. When I want to zip from one place to another, I kick it up as fast as it will go. When doing so, physics kicks in and the motor wants to move forward, flexing the transom quite a bit. Hasn't really caused a problem just yet, but I can see at some point in time, especially after some heavy use, of breaking the transom off the back.

What I am looking for is something similar to the way a four-link suspension is set up or works on a differential. Transfer the forward motion of the trolling motor to the frame of the boat.

I have seen some items about the 'net that would work with a bit of engineering, but if there is something already built that anyone knows about...shout. Otherwise, I have about five different things I could see combining to make it work. Thanks!


Chad

[Toni]

I also have a 36 lb. thrust motor but a 12 foot fiberglass sears boat. When I put it up to 5 (fastest) it pushes right up and off the transom. The clamps don't hold it on the boat. So I can't go the fastest unless I am holding down the motor.

[leahcim_dahc]

I also have a 36 lb. thrust motor but a 12 foot fiberglass sears boat. When I put it up to 5 (fastest) it pushes right up and off the transom. The clamps don't hold it on the boat. So I can't go the fastest unless I am holding down the motor.

Do you have to apply quite a bit of pressure to hold it down? Is it coming off the transom itself, or the shaft moving up the mount? If it's coming off the transom...maybe a couple pieces of grip tape on the outboard side of the transom would give it enough grip the plastic mount won't slide. Not sure how long that would last in the water though...

Also make sure the hand-screws are tight enough...

With regards to my issue with the support, I think I found a transom saver that I can modify to fit my needs. We'll see how well it works out.


Chad

[Anonymous]

Do you have to apply quite a bit of pressure to hold it down? No not much pressure.. It is awkward to have to use both hands.
Is it coming off the transom itself, or the shaft moving up the mount? It is coming off the transom. No the shaft isn't moving up. It slowly works its way down.
If it's coming off the transom...maybe a couple pieces of grip tape on the outboard side of the transom would give it enough grip the plastic mount won't slide. Not sure how long that would last in the water though... Will that is sure worth the try.

Also make sure the hand-screws are tight enough... As tight as I can get them. My neighbor has the same type of boat and motor and he has the same problem. He is younger and a guy so he has more strength.

Thanks for your help and I am glad you found something to help.

[clam man]

Because your boat is fiberglass, you can bolt a small strip of treated wood (or just let it age, and replace every few years) along the transom lip. This will create a lip for your motor, screw it on beneath the lip, and it will not be able to slide up off your boat anymore. Should take about 20 minutes of work. Use stainless bolts or screws.

[Toni]

Because your boat is fiberglass, you can bolt a small strip of treated wood (or just let it age, and replace every few years) along the transom lip. This will create a lip for your motor, screw it on beneath the lip, and it will not be able to slide up off your boat anymore. Should take about 20 minutes of work. Use stainless bolts or screws.

I had thought of doing this but between the clamp and the top of the transom might be less than an inch so the wood, I thought, might split, when putting in the screws, because it is so thin. Is there a way around that?

[leahcim_dahc]

Because your boat is fiberglass, you can bolt a small strip of treated wood (or just let it age, and replace every few years) along the transom lip. This will create a lip for your motor, screw it on beneath the lip, and it will not be able to slide up off your boat anymore. Should take about 20 minutes of work. Use stainless bolts or screws.

I had thought of doing this but between the clamp and the top of the transom might be less than an inch so the wood, I thought, might split, when putting in the screws, because it is so thin. Is there a way around that?

How about a strip of aluminum...?

[leahcim_dahc]

Below are a couple pics of what I come up with. Used a transom saver from Joe's. Haven't tested it yet, nor is it high speed and sexy, but I think it will work just fine.

It's mounted solid, no fore and aft movement as before, and side to side movement has also been eliminated. The piece that the shaft is in, is made out of a dense but flexible rubber so it holds fairly snug.


Chad

[leahcim_dahc]

Got out on the water this morning to test the transom saver. Worked just as I expected. Absolutely no movement at the transom anymore, either forward or reverse.


Chad

[fishing collector]

Anyone heard of such a beast?

The issue I am having is on my pontoon I have a 36lb. minnkota trolling motor. When I want to zip from one place to another, I kick it up as fast as it will go. When doing so, physics kicks in and the motor wants to move forward, flexing the transom quite a bit. Hasn't really caused a problem just yet, but I can see at some point in time, especially after some heavy use, of breaking the transom off the back.

What I am looking for is something similar to the way a four-link suspension is set up or works on a differential. Transfer the forward motion of the trolling motor to the frame of the boat.

I have seen some items about the 'net that would work with a bit of engineering, but if there is something already built that anyone knows about...shout. Otherwise, I have about five different things I could see combining to make it work. Thanks

Chad

Looks good to me...proplem solved!!

[fishing collector]

Because your boat is fiberglass, you can bolt a small strip of treated wood (or just let it age, and replace every few years) along the transom lip. This will create a lip for your motor, screw it on beneath the lip, and it will not be able to slide up off your boat anymore. Should take about 20 minutes of work. Use stainless bolts or screws.

I had thought of doing this but between the clamp and the top of the transom might be less than an inch so the wood, I thought, might split, when putting in the screws, because it is so thin. Is there a way around that?

Instead of using wood you can use a piece of aluminium and bolt it thru...... You can get a towel rack and use the bar from that..... Might work.... Sounds good to me. Steve

[fishing collector]

Because your boat is fiberglass, you can bolt a small strip of treated wood (or just let it age, and replace every few years) along the transom lip. This will create a lip for your motor, screw it on beneath the lip, and it will not be able to slide up off your boat anymore. Should take about 20 minutes of work. Use stainless bolts or screws.

I had thought of doing this but between the clamp and the top of the transom might be less than an inch so the wood, I thought, might split, when putting in the screws, because it is so thin. Is there a way around that?

Instead of using wood you can use a piece of aluminium and bolt it thru...... You can get a towel rack and use the bar from that..... Might work.... Sounds good to me. Steve

[wolverine]

That transom saver is a good idea. My electric always wants to climb up and off the motor mount on my toon. I've been using a bungee cord to keep it down.

[leahcim_dahc]

That transom saver is a good idea. My electric always wants to climb up and off the motor mount on my toon. I've been using a bungee cord to keep it down.

I don't know how well it would work in that particular instance. I never did have an issue with the motor moving up and off the transom, as others have had.

My original idea was to fabricate something similar using a setup that would attach to the frame and pivot, allowing me to move the motor up and down as normal.

I was thinking about a pontoon adapter minn kota has, and fab. a mount similar to the way my wheel is mounted. But, after figuring the cost...it was cheaper to attach the transom saver. So far it's not anymore inconvenient than anything else I've mounted on the pontoon.

Now that there is additional support...I might even start looking at a higher rated motor, but I'd have to convince the wifey first... :bom:


Chad

[Anonymous]

Because your boat is fiberglass, you can bolt a small strip of treated wood (or just let it age, and replace every few years) along the transom lip. This will create a lip for your motor, screw it on beneath the lip, and it will not be able to slide up off your boat anymore. Should take about 20 minutes of work. Use stainless bolts or screws.

I had thought of doing this but between the clamp and the top of the transom might be less than an inch so the wood, I thought, might split, when putting in the screws, because it is so thin. Is there a way around that?

Instead of using wood you can use a piece of aluminium and bolt it thru...... You can get a towel rack and use the bar from that..... Might work.... Sounds good to me. Steve

There is so little room to put anything. I will try to put a picture on. There is maybe an inch.

[fishing collector]

If you put a piece of aluminium..ie the square 3/4' TOWEL BAR without the ends on the edge of the boat and if needed notch it a little and bolt it on. The screw down clamps will fit over them and the bar will become a stop for the motor. You don't really need something to big, just something to become a stop for the clamps. A small Hardwood piece will work just fine on both sides of the stern..... I just suggested the square tube from a towel rack because it would look nice.....so would a piece of hardwood or plywood...... Just jump in with both feet and you will be done and fixed in less than an hour, out fishin' with no problems.... Just for your own ease of mind, put a safety line on the motor so it doesn't go swimming... Good luck to you!

I was just thinking that a piece of channel iron would also work.....Just a short piece that fits over the stern....bolt it on with stainless bolts....It will work just fine... All these fixes cost anywhere from free to less than $20.00 bucks.