Attach a downrigger --FINISHED go to page 2

[Anonymous]

When putting a downrigger on your boat at the back, would there be a difference in whether the boat was an aluminum or fiberglass? I am concerned about the placement cracking my fiberglass boat. I have seen the placement on aluminum boats the same size as mine but I am not sure that it would work (without cracking) the fiberglass on my boat. It is a 12 foot "old" Sears Gamefisher.
It also is not level at the back corners. The very back is lower than the sides.
I thought about attaching it to the side in the middle but that might even be worst than the corner in the back.

[G-Man]

Your questions can be more easily answered if you post a photo of the back section of your boat. Also it would help if the make and model of the downrigger was known.

Typically you will use a backing plate/block to help disperse the tension of the mount which should prevent the cracking you are worried about. I mounted a downrigger on my fiberglass boat using a "L" bracket fabbed out of some 3/8" aluminum plate. This was fasted to the side trim of the gunwale so I didn't have to drill any holes in the top side. I really depends on how beefy your boat's fiberglass is back there.

[Toni]

Pictures

[BentRod]

Toni, What about bracket that would attach to the wooden bench seat. Maybe a short section of 4x4 or something? Just to raise it in the air. It doesn't have to be attached to the gunwhale, just hanging over the side. It looks to be a bolt on, not clamp on, correct?

[Toni]

Toni, What about bracket that would attach to the wooden bench seat. Maybe a short section of 4x4 or something? Just to raise it in the air. It doesn't have to be attached to the gunwhale, just hanging over the side. It looks to be a bolt on, not clamp on, correct?

I am visual learner and I can't picture what you are saying.

[Toni]

It looks to be a bolt on, not clamp on, correct?

Yes

[BentRod]

Toni, What about bracket that would attach to the wooden bench seat. Maybe a short section of 4x4 or something? Just to raise it in the air. It doesn't have to be attached to the gunwhale, just hanging over the side. It looks to be a bolt on, not clamp on, correct?

I am visual learner and I can't picture what you are saying.

I'll try to explain. You can get a 4x4 or 4x6 inch fencepost at the hardware store. Cut off a short section that could allow the downrigger base to be bolted to it. Attach that section of wood to the bench seat at the side of the boat. The section of post would act as a riser and the stress of the downrigger would be not be on the gunwhale. I can make an illustration tomorrow if this still doesn't make sense...or maybe someone will come up with a better idea/explanation.

[flinginpooh]

Ive been looking at downriggers. They have clamp on bases that you can bolt on your d/r to. That is how I will be doing mine. Check cabelas for the bracket and see if that will help ya out. Here is a cannon bolt on. They have others as well. http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templ ... hasJS=true


Big link lol. Hope it helps ya toni.

[Toni]

I can't use any type of clamp on because of the top edge of the boat. It is rounded and very thick. I can't use the clamp for rod holders either.

[flinginpooh]

2x4s Ive never heard of a clamp on style not working Id use the 2x4s anyhow because of it being fiberglass and clamp down on them. Where there is a will there is a way.

[Anonymous]

I am visual learner.

Here ya go Toni,
Something along these lines could work for you.
You may have to beef up your boat seat with a backer plate but this could work for you.

[Bodofish]

Hey D, Workin hard on the night shift? That's one heck of a riser for the DR.

[Anonymous]

Hey D, Workin hard on the night shift? That's one heck of a riser for the DR.

Hey Bodo,
You got that right. Working the graveyard shift...The story of my life and you?
The DR Riser in the photo is on a friend’s 14 foot aluminum boat. He beefed up the seat so he could use ten & twelve pound weights on Lake Chelan.

Here's another photo of his setup:

[Bodofish]

Yep 12's at night, 7 to 7.

[bionic_one]

Like they said, if there's a will, there's a way. I have a DR on my kayak.


You could easily add another mounting area similar to the one that is already there for the outboard motor (in your 2nd and 3rd pictures). Add one on the side that you want it, then get some metal "L" brackets and make yourself a shelf. Mount the DR to the shelf. Doesn't matter if the shelf is slighty angled.

[BentRod]

There you go Toni, like the pictures Big D posted, but replace the aluminum riser with a section of wood of appropriate size. However, that aluminum riser seems far superior to a wood block. lol.

['OL GREY DOG]

i have my DRs mounted a few feet forward of the rear seat(no pun)and where is verrry important if your making a perm install....i'd "rig" it some how and get in your boat and try it...standing???kneeling??..clip'n in can be a pain if it's not in the right place...is it going to be in the way when not DR'n??
(hint..when drilling and mounting to glass i ALLLLWAYS make the holes a lil over size
and during assembly i add a lil goober of silicone to the bolts so that it forms a lil
gromit/washer in the hole...i counter sink the holes a tiny bit on both sides
sharp corners and preasure in glass WILL cause cracks...and use WAY oversized washers ...
ALL STAINLESS STEEL .....and use self locking/castilated nuts)ps a lil silicon get'n in the
threads of the bolt give added prevetion of stuff loose'n up and wont cuase any probs if
it needs to be removed
all that be'n said i'd find a welder with a good pile of scrap and have it built out of alum...something that will mount on the top of the gunwhale that sticks INBOARD 8 inchs or so and a piece 10 or 12 that goes down at a angle to be though bolted through the side of the boat....AAAGAIN i'd sand/file down corners and edges of anything contacting glass and use a backing plate either wood or alum where bolted though side of hull maybe both sides to spread out that presure and ROUND OVER the edges of these too...a base that allows romoval and pivot is worth the money(my opp)
P.S. your a girl toni bat your baby browns and smile at the welder a lotttt(the guy not the machine) and i bet you can get out of there without it cost'n ya a arm or a leg and with a bracket you'll be proud to have in your boat and will serve you well for many years
good luck
tight lines & strong knots
DOG

[Anonymous]

I’ve been watching this thread and figured that it was time to give my input. I think that trying to fab up something to attach the rigger directly to the gunnels is a disaster waiting to happen. If you get the ball snagged there is not much freeboard and your safety margin will be very narrow. Additionally the fiberglass is old and will be prone to fracturing. I would recommend some form of attachment that would mount the downrigger to the seat. I would locate the mount so that the end of the downrigger boom is only a few inches to a foot outboard of the gunnel. The improved safety will be two fold; 1) Your center of gravity will be closer to the centerline of your boat and the boat will be less likely to dip further reducing the freeboard. 2) First I would also run a braided downrigger cable, if you do and with the business end of your downrigger being closer to you, you can always cut the braided line with a knife if you get in trouble. I have attached a few pictures of my installation. The equipment is manufactured by Traxstech. They have numerous downrigger mounting options, many of which could be mounted directly to your seat.

[saltyseadog]

nice set up rseas

Toni the tiger,
stay away from a wood post,#-o for one its just plain ugly:-" go to wally world and get seat post riser and use that. there like 12 bucks

[Toni]

nice set up rseas

Toni the tiger,
stay away from a wood post,#-o for one its just plain ugly:-" go to wally world and get seat post riser and use that. there like 12 bucks

Doesn't matter what it looks like as long as it works.

rseas that is a nice set up but I think the boat is longer than 12 foot.