115 hp merc not accelerating

[Mike10gs]

Thanks everyone. I sprayed in the 3 carbs. I sprayed directly in the openings. Will let sit till tomorrow.

I will clean out the gas tank. Its only a 5 gal tank. Don't know what i will do with the gas. But is pacific pride or texaco ethanol free gas?

[Hunter757]

Put the gas in your lawnmower or truck? I gave you a link to find your local gas station that had the gas you want or should be using. Keep us up to date.

[G-Man]

Here is a good site that will show you where you can purchase ethanol free gas in our State.

http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=WA

[hewesfisher]

All good advice here! The ethanol fuel you just added may not be the best for your fuel system parts, but may actually help suck water (dry) out of the fuel system and clean it some too, as long as you run it through and fill up with E-free soon!

hewesfisher-
My favorite is when people add Heet to supplement their E-10 fuel! Ive even heard mechanics recommend adding the little "4 oz bottles of alcohol" to the tank that's already 10% ethanol...

A good modern sealed fuel system is not too bothered by ethanol in fuel, but older systems that have open vents and leaky fuel caps etc.. suck water right out of the air (hyGroscopic) Once the ethanol content becomes about 7% water, the water cant stay suspended in the fuel and forces "phase separation". After the water/ethanol separates to the bottom of the tank and flows out into the rest of the fuel system, its likely over 90% ethanol! Now we have a major problem.... Many times in small fuel systems, I will see fuel lines/parts melt, only in the low points, which is a pretty good visual representation of what can happen.

When engines stutter and die after sitting over the winter, 9/10 times I'll find white powdery corrosion or particles of rubber lines etc.. in the carb plugging up jets.

This is usually only a problem in older or unsealed systems and/or extended storage, but that describes many of our boats pretty well! The stabilizers (Stabil) ive had experience with have been useless against this ethanol fuel phase separation problem, so I'm skeptical of stabilizers... but hopefully those marine stabilizers better?

....my 2 cents...
-Sideburns

Fuel stabilizer isn't for preventing phase separation, nothing can stop that, it's for preventing octane degradation which happens to ethanol and non-ethanol alike. If you run your outboard 2 - 3 times/week, unlikely the fuel would need a stabilizer, might not even need a fuel system cleaner if using top-tier fuel from a high traffic station. However, few of us run our outboards that frequently. The vast majority of us might run them 2 - 3 times/month for maybe 3 - 5 months, then let them sit for months at a time in winter.

Good points about closed fuel systems, but doesn't apply Mike's situation. New carb kits should contain ethanol compliant parts, all fuel lines should be upgraded to newer, EPA compliant versions to preclude incompatibility issues and fuel permeation through hose and bulb. Exact reason I recommended this in my prior post.

Also, once this alcohol water mixture has separated, the rest of the fuel is now mostly ethanol free right? Yeah, maybe, but the ethanol was responsible for a lot of the octane rating of the fuel. Without the ethanol, E10 becomes extremely low octane, and can be dangerous in some engines. So dont just drain off the water when you see water in tanks, dump it all, and get new fuel!

Once phase separation occurs, nothing can be done to make the non-fuel usable again. The non-fuel must be pumped out, properly disposed of, tanks thoroughly cleaned, purged, and dried before new fuel is introduced.

FWIW, in 8yrs ownership of an open fuel system vented to atmosphere, I have never experienced phase separation in my boat's 48gal tank. My engine has a built in water/fuel separator with a water in fuel sensor and I have never had water in my fuel. I am a firm believer in keeping my fuel tank full and maybe that's why, maybe not. All I know is I've never had a problem with ethanol. Again, it's not by choice I use ethanol, it's because I have no readily accessible, reasonably priced alternative. If I had reasonable access to top-tier, non-ethanol, 87octane fuel from a high traffic station for the same price as E-10, that's all I'd use, but since I don't, I use recommended grade, top-tier ethanol from a major brand high traffic station. I'd still run the recommended additives I currently use even with non-ethanol fuel, so nothing would change for me.

I follow a dedicated Mercury engine forum daily. This forum is moderated by one of the most respected Merc techs in the country who, btw, happens to be a dual certified Master Mercury tech with 40yrs experience. Folks there refer to him as the "Merc guru" and since 2008, has amassed over 71,600 posts helping folks with their Mercs. He's the general manager of a Mercury Premier dealership (still turning wrenches daily) that has received Mercury's CSI Award the past 9 consecutive years. I've learned more about my engines (in addition to other Mercs) and how to properly care for them in the past 6yrs there than anywhere else. I share what I've learned for the benefit of those here asking for help with their Mercs.

If you've ever rebuilt a carburetor, and I've rebuilt lots of them, you know spraying anything in the carb throat just cleans external parts, does not get inside where the gummed up components and passageways are, and ends up in the manifold (on 4-stroke engines). On a carbed 2-stroke, the spray cleaner goes straight into the crankcase. No big deal with the pressurized oiling system on a 4-stroke, but not so with oil in gas 2-strokes because it will dilute the fuel/oil mix in the crankcase which the engine relies on for lubrication. Not in my engine thank you.

The cleaner needs to be mixed with the fuel/oil and run to do any good. Sort of like spraying paint over rust, it will look good for awhile then the rust comes back. Spraying something in the carb throat will clean the throat and throttle blades but it won't ever clean internal passageways and jets, so the poor running issue comes right back.

Know I'm either preaching to the choir (folks already know this) or talking to a brick wall (folks don't care to know this) but need to say it anyway. YMMV (your mileage may vary).

[Mike10gs]

Sorry it took me a while to actually get around to it. Today i finally did. I actually went ahead and changed my spark plugs. Have not done it at all the time ive owned it which is a little over 2 years. Cleaned my gas tank and put fresh fuel with 1oz Quickleen and Quickstor.

I ran it at home with the muffs and garden hose. It took a couple tries but it started. Would not stay on till about the 3rd or 4th time and it stayed on. Let it warm up for 2 to 3 minutes and then put it into gear. It did start going and as i accelerated more it did sound like it was picking up speed. It acty sounded really good. Now i want to go try on the water. I have a question.
Is it different turning it on at home with the muffs ,than it being on the water? Or should it perform the same? Thanks to everyone who has helped.

[Amx]

it'll be different at home because there is no pressure on the prop when turning, and there is no water pressure on the exhaust because the exhaust isn't under water.

[Mike10gs]

Got it. So i wont know for sure till i go try it on the water.

[hewesfisher]

Just replied to your PM. Put it in the water and see how it runs.