Drift Boat Motor

[Steelheadin360]

I have been pondering over a question for a few weeks now and have decided to enlist the input from my fellow WA Lakes members.

As Steelhead wraps up for me in a month or so I will be doing some upgrades to my drift boat.Including a 3/4 level floor, electric down-riggers, hidden electrical system, and a Kicker motor. Kokanee season is fast approaching and a 18'x66" high side drift boat makes a much nicer platform then my Livingston. But I am having a problem deciding on a shaft length for my motor.




As you can see, with my boat sitting about level and the tape going straight down, its 22" and some change from the top of my "transom" to the bottom of my boat. Regarding water level- I have had 3 full size men in the front of my boat, fishing gear, etc and with me standing in the very back the extreme end of the boat barely touches water. But when I have downriggers, 2 people, gear, a 6hp ls, and myself in the back, it sits about an inch or two in the water. Until I walk forward.

So here is what I have been pondering. 2 things. First would be the logical thing and spend the extra $300-700 when buying a motor and get an 9.9hp XL shaft (25") and solve the problem. Second thing to do would be to get one of those adjustable kicker brackets, and bolt it onto the back and just get a 20" shaft motor. allowing for raising and lower in varied water conditions and depths.

The main thing I am worried about is the water intake on the motor coming out at any time. Any input?

[fear_no_fish]

That is going to be one set up drift boat!
I think your best bet is the kicker bracket, to adjust up or down. The extra 5" will help but might not be enough is some situations. Like a ski/pleasure boat tossing some big waves at you or whatever it might be.
But on a nice flat day with no big waves coming at you the extra 5" will probably be enough. The bracket may be a cheaper route depending on bracket of course. Or you just weight the boat weight down with beer and fish, your choice.

[Steelheadin360]

Or you just weight the boat weight down with beer and fish, your choice.

Im leaning towards the bracket too. Not only for the ruff water but when i wanna go back up river and the water gets skinny.

Thanks buddy

[fear_no_fish]

You could probably get away with cutting a transom out of the back but that might be kind of pricey to get done correctly. Unless you got someone to do it for cheap. But I would still go for the bracket in your case.
Good luck.

[Steelheadin360]

So here is what I have narrowed it down to.

A) Purchase a 8hp Tohatsu LS, kicker bracket, and have less vibration but waste the power of a bigger motor. Most DB's have a top end speed in the single digits due to hull design
B) Purchase a 6hp Tohatsu Sail Pro with a 25" shaft and built in chargin system for way cheaper and have something I can pull on and off.

[bassplayer17]

So here is what I have narrowed it down to.

A) Purchase a 8hp Tohatsu LS, kicker bracket, and have less vibration but waste the power of a bigger motor. Most DB's have a top end speed in the single digits due to hull design
B) Purchase a 6hp Tohatsu Sail Pro with a 25" shaft and built in chargin system for way cheaper and have something I can pull on and off.

Go with the 6 hp your not going to set any speed records with your db and it will keep your batteries charged..

[Cascadian]

Personally, I think the absolute best motor for a drift boat is the Mercury 8hp ML. Most drift boats I have seen can run fine with the long shaft (20" version), but I suppose if your boat is exceptionally deep, you might want to consider a bracket, transom cutout, or the longer shafted motor.

The reason I recommend the two stroke 8hp is because it is significantly lighter than a 4 stroke. More horse power per pound ratio. Less bow rise and less transom sink under power. The Merc 8hp motor only weighs 57lbs. The two stroke motors are cheaper too. The shifter is in the handle so an extension handle will work to shift the motor so you don't have to walk back to the motor to shift into neutral or reverse. The trim is also in the handle so you can trim up the prop in shallow water. It is a really smooth running two-stroke motor that trolls well. The 6hp motors are typically just a de-tuned 8hp so there is usually negligible weight difference. The lighter 6hp motors are generally a single cylinder engine (which you don't want).

Everyone I know that has run a 6hp on a drift boat has wished they went with the 8hp. I think you won't find any motor that can perform better in this application.

Btw, where do you fish for Kokanee? Stevens?

[Steelheadin360]

Cascadian, Thank you for the input

I fish for Kokanee literally everywhere they inhabit but Lake Stevens is my "home" lake. 10 min from the house

[Steelheadin360]

Well after a lot of research and question asking I settled on a motor.

2014 Tohatsu 6hp Sail Pro 25" shaft, Alternator, "big foot" Lower unit, and plenty of shaft length to keep the prop in the water. Its also surprisingly light for a 4stroke.



The little had to give it the "Quality Inspection" when it arrived

[Bodofish]

Excellent motor! Very highly rated. I know guys that use them on their big 24 and 26 foot jet sleds for lake trolling. Better speed control with the smaller motor. Not so good on the river with a big boat.

[Steelheadin360]

[Bodofish]

Nice!!! I love it and I especially love the charging circuit for the battery (s)!!!!!!! Win!

[fear_no_fish]

How much does that motor weight? Looks nice

[Steelheadin360]

How much does that motor weight? Looks nice

59 pounds! Which was the big selling point for me

[Bodofish]

That's about as close to a one hander as anyone gonna git!

[Steelheadin360]

That's about as close to a one hander as anyone gonna git!

I was really suprised when I picked it up out of the box. Tomorrow we see how well it pushes the boat