painting an old aluminum jon boat??

[rancocasrich]

Folks, I have decided to paint my old aluminum 10' jon boat. The previous owner painted it and did a terrible job of prepping. It is peeling everywhere. I have blasted it with a power washer, scraped, sanded etc. Now comes the easy part.....painting. What type of primer/sealer would you recommend? I prefer to use a latex acrylic but would oil be better? I will also caulk all seams. It does have a tiny leak, so I want to cure that. Any suggestions on a caulk?

[HillbillyGeek]

Folks, I have decided to paint my old aluminum 10' jon boat. The previous owner painted it and did a terrible job of prepping. It is peeling everywhere. I have blasted it with a power washer, scraped, sanded etc. Now comes the easy part.....painting. What type of primer/sealer would you recommend? I prefer to use a latex acrylic but would oil be better? I will also caulk all seams. It does have a tiny leak, so I want to cure that. Any suggestions on a caulk?

Silicone caulk would seal the best and last longer than latex, but paint won't stick to it. Hmm... maybe one of those new "hybrid" caulks would be good. They aren't silicone or latex. I'm just guessing now.

[gpc]

Last year I had the same little project, on about the same size boat, but it wasnt a jon boat. I still havnt got around to painting the outside of the boat but I did re do the inside. I just used kills primer and bugle boy exterior paint that I got on sale. The paint didnt hold to well at all but the primer is still in pretty good shape. I was down at boaters world and was looking at the boat paint. I wanted to paint the little boat to look like my bigger boat, but that paint was $250 a gallon. Being as I got the boat for free I doubt it will receive the $250 paint job. Spray paint goes on really well and finnishes really well too. No brush streaks. What I want to try is to paint the boat a light brown and then sponge paint some black and olive green, I think this will give it the digital camo look. As far as caulk, my old boat was a little 14 fter and it was really beat up and old, not to mention we were the 3rd owners too, I think. Every spring I would caulk every seem and every rivet, never did find that leek lol. But at the end of every fishing season the leak was 10 times worse than the begginig so the caulk was helping something. I think my problem was I never used the right caulk, I would just use what ever I had laying around. So I would just go all out and get the most expensive stuff you can. If you know where the leek is try to JB weld it.

[beresford13861]

use silicone caulking, mix the paint with the silicone prior to applying it, it will take the color you want, and cure in SUPER FAST TIME.

i get some metal type prep/primer, like th stuff they use before you apply bed liner stuff. the silicone seal, and the seal/priner are the most importana parts.

[danielt]

You might be able to find caulk that will match the color of the paint. Ive got all kinds of different colors from work...everything from red, black, brown and 30 shades of white.

[2000subaru]

I have used Sikaflex 291 for the sealant of a hull-thru drain on my glass boat. I just read the label and it looks to be paintable. I picked it up at Auburn Sports and Marine, just a little plug for them. Worked perfectly for me. Just wear gloves, unless you like the silicone finger look.

[Gisteppo]

Sikaflex 291, 3M 5200, JB weld, 2 part epoxy, etc etc. It will work better than the silicone because below-waterline applications were not the intent of silicone. Works great in household applications, but stick with the real stuff to fix leaks.

Paint the boat with automotive paints and you will be happier. Im guessing it doesn't get moored and spends less than 100 days a year in the water, so basically any auto paint will be effective. Most good quality paints are being canned in aerosol cans, and just ask what a good primer over aluminum would be at the local auto parts store. The cheap route is to stop by your local farm implement store and ask the same questions. They typically undersell every auto paint, but come in the standards color-wise. I think IH red looks really nice on a boat anyways, though.

E

[hewesfisher]

Go to the closest auto body paint supply store and tell them what you are doing. They should sell you an aluminum cleaner/conditioner that would be used to prep the hull for primer. Be sure to use all the same brand, do not mix brands.

I do body & paint work, (I'm an ASE Certified Master Collision & Refinishing Technician) and absolutely hate silicone, paint will not stick to it, at least not very long. It would be my last product I'd use on my boat.

If you want a good, durable, long-lasting paint job, then spray it with acrylic urethane enamel, and forget the rattle can crap. Your best bet is to find a small body shop that might spray it for you if you've done all the prep work. No guarantee, but definitely better than a brush or spray bomb.

[VooDuuChild]

Personally, if my thirty some-odd year aluminum boat ever starts leaking more than a few tablespoons a day; I've been kickin around the idea of having my buddy who does collision/paint/etc just spray expanding foam where paint can't get, then shoot the inside the rest of the boat real good to the upper seam with a spray in bed liner. Looks good, should be durable as heck and solve any leakage issues. I'm also thinking that it will quiet down the noise generated by waves slapping the non-insulated aluminum hull. Of course, this all works well in theory, in my head which has no real education is such matters, hahaha. Funny thing too, we took a six dollar white styro-foam cooler, shot it, inside and out, now it serves as a seat and a cooler it's so dang tough! Amazing stuff SOME of those truck liners, not those roll-on ones, we tried those, blah, get it sprayed, do it right.

[Lotech Joe]

Hands down, this is the best stuff to use for your application. I used it on a hole the size of a pencil lead on the bottom of aluminum 14 footer. Then I used it on all the seams. The boat NEVER leaked again. It will puddle, so you have to position your boat so it stays where you want it till it cures. I give it a 100% testimonial. Spendy, but worth it.
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/377940085.htm

[Gisteppo]

Keep in mind all expanding foams will saturate with water and increase in weight. They don't produce a true closed cell, so some water will seep in, wick up, and fill the void with wet, heavy foam.

E

[racfish]

I have a question related to this topic.I have a 8' Livingston that through the years of being covered outside has turned slightly moss green.I could look at it as free camo coloring,but I want to paint it and keep it white.What kind of paint is used for fiberglass? I've been to Boatersworld but they couldnt answer the question.I was hoping a spray paint made for plastic would work but it didnt real well.Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[A9]

I have a question related to this topic.I have a 8' Livingston that through the years of being covered outside has turned slightly moss green.I could look at it as free camo coloring,but I want to paint it and keep it white.What kind of paint is used for fiberglass? I've been to Boatersworld but they couldnt answer the question.I was hoping a spray paint made for plastic would work but it didnt real well.Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Call Livingston and see what they say. They will have the best input...
The guys at Boaters World are not actually all that well informed...Some are very knowledgable, but I've ran into quite a few employees that were definitely incompetent for the job..

[Gisteppo]

rac, any paint will stick to fiberglass that has been properly prepped. If you take the time to CLEAN the boat, sand it with 120 grit, and wipe clean again, the majority of paints will stick.

Oil based (Kirby marine paint, porch paint) sticks fine

Latex (house paint) sticks well, but will blister over time if underwater enough

LPU (linear polyurethane) marine paint, very hard finish, not easy to put on but makes her shiny.

I have West marine house brand topsides paint on a few of my boats, works well, blister free, in white. Also have Kirby on the big one, very happy with it, but its mail order only from the west coast.

West:



The white paint is on my tug (this is the mastercraft that was airlifted):



E

[2000subaru]

I just love that picture E. That guy probably has to tuck his tail between his legs and probably won't tell a soul about "The Little Boat That Could"

Chris
IAFF local 864

[Lotech Joe]

I have a question related to this topic.I have a 8' Livingston that through the years of being covered outside has turned slightly moss green.I could look at it as free camo coloring,but I want to paint it and keep it white.What kind of paint is used for fiberglass? I've been to Boatersworld but they couldnt answer the question.I was hoping a spray paint made for plastic would work but it didnt real well.Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Before you paint you should probably clean the boat well. I would try TSP (trisodium phosphate). I believe it is non costic and it is a very good cleaner. For paint, I'd first go to a Chevrolet parts department and ask them what kind of paint they use on Corvettes.
Let us know how it all works out. OK?:compress:

[Gisteppo]

Its a good story, and an even better youtube video Chris.

Eric
IAFF local 29

[racfish]

I live within 100 yards of Lk Wa.Is it safe to use TSP incase it gets into the groundwater? I cant use many pesticides or fertilizers for same reason.Thanks.I'll take a before and after pic.

[Anonymous]

I have used Sikaflex 291 for the sealant of a hull-thru drain on my glass boat. I just read the label and it looks to be paintable. I picked it up at Auburn Sports and Marine, just a little plug for them. Worked perfectly for me. Just wear gloves, unless you like the silicone finger look.

The Sikaflex is good as is the 3M counterpart. Polyurathane caulk / glue is a lot more durable than RTV.
As far as painting. No paint will stick to aluminum oxide or silicone. If you want good adhesion it needs to be cleaned down to bare metal and acid washed or sanded then painted within 8 hours. The aluminum will oxidize in roughly 8 hours. Epoxy primer with poly paint is about the toughest combo I've come across. OR you could just hit it hard with the scotch brite give it a good acid wash and paint it with just about anything but water based paint / AKA acrylic or latex paint.

Added note: Good tips Hewes! although if you're on a budget and want white or beige or something like that, you could use rattle cans of appliance paint. It's a one part epoxy that's kicked by air. Make sure the cans are warm (almost hot) and you're shooting in a warm place. Always wear a mask!

When I was in the underwater constructionn equipment biz we would use the appliance paint for small one off jobs and it worked very well. Alu is one of those things that can be a real ***** to paint or it can be easy. It's all in the prep and paint selection. What ever you do don't brush.

[Bodofish]

Ha brain fart! powder coating with a good thick coat, no need to caulk rivets and seams. Just get it cleaned up and bam! It's good for life.